Have you ever dreamed of visiting a hippie paradise, where you can practice yoga, meditate, and connect with like-minded people? If so, you may have heard of San Marcos La Laguna, a small village on the shores of Lake Atitlan in Guatemala. Amongst the diverse villages around the lake, San Marcos La Laguna is known for its spiritual vibe and is a popular destination for travelers who seek peace, personal development and community.
I visited San Marcos La Laguna in December 2023 and had a mixed experience. On the one hand, I enjoyed the stunning scenery, connected with inspiring people, and found that the energy of San Marcos La Laguna awakened my creativity. On the other hand, I was disturbed by the inequality, the (potential) cultural exploitation, and the overall impact of tourism. In this blog post, I want to share with you the good and the icky side of San Marcos La Laguna, and how you can travel ethically in this hippie town.
The Good
San Marcos La Laguna has a lot to offer for anyone who loves spirituality, soul nourishing activities, and good food(!!). Here are some of the positive aspects of this place:
The natural beauty of the lake and the volcanoes. Lake Atitlan is (said to be) one of the most beautiful lakes in the world, surrounded by three majestic volcanoes. The views are breathtaking. You can swim, kayak, or boat on the lake, or hike up the volcanoes for a panoramic view.
The friendly and welcoming locals. The majority of the population in San Marcos La Laguna are Indigenous Maya, who have a rich and ancient culture. In my experience the locals are very hospitable and generous, especially when you make an effort with small talk in Spanish. There are several places where you can participate in Maya traditions, such as doing a cacao ceremony at various places, and a little deeper into the mountains I witnessed what seemed to be a traditional procession or ritual from my bedroom window.
The diverse and inspiring people you will connect with, especially after attending ceremonies, activities or a festival. San Marcos La Laguna attracts people from all over the world, who come here for different reasons. Some are backpackers, some are expats, some are artists, some are healers, some are spiritual seekers. You can meet people from different backgrounds, cultures, and perspectives, and have meaningful and inspiring conversations. I met some amazing people at a festival I attended, and we shared our stories, dreams, and insights.
I went to the Winter Solstice Festival at Eagle's Nest which included a daily cacao ceremony, workshops such as from the Fungi Academy, Acroyoga, and an amazing Tantra Waving Workshop. There were insightful talks on Science and Spirituality (from Allison Graham), 'Ayahuasca Traditions, Legends and Integration' (by Daniel Morningstar), there was a kundalini activation session and a breathwork session. And of course, there was live music from countless DJs (of which some of my favorites included Uji and RIYOON) and ecstatic dance. After meeting people at the festival and in my shared home space, I could no longer walk through the small village without running into people that I knew.
The opportunities to learn new skills, such as yoga, Mayan massages, or cooking. San Marcos La Laguna is a hub for learning and growth, and you can find a variety of courses, workshops, and retreats to suit your interests and needs. You can practice yoga, meditation, or tai chi, learn massage, reiki, or acupuncture, or take cooking, language, or art classes. You can also find mentors, coaches, or therapists to help you with your personal or professional development. While I was at the festival, I learned that the Fungi Academy (who teaches all kinds of courses on psychedelic and medicinal mushrooms) and that I have been following on Instagram for many years, is actually based in San Marcos (they also offer courses online!). Another particularly interesting academy is the Pyramid School, a center for spiritual study.
The variety of activities and experiences to choose from, such as hiking, kayaking, or visiting a nature reserve. San Marcos La Laguna has something for everyone, whether you are looking for adventure, relaxation, or fun. You can hike to nearby villages, waterfalls, or caves, kayak or boat on the lake, or visit a nature reserve where you can apparently see monkeys, birds, and butterflies. You can also enjoy the nightlife, with live music, dancing, and fire shows.
One reason as to why I wish I could stay longer was the fire spinning community. As you may or may not know I have a dragon firestaff. So when I saw someone else walking with a dragon staff on my first day there, I was thrilled. I ended up connecting and spinning with several other flow artists, which gave me new inspiration and motivation. However, in the time that I was there, there were no fire nights and so I did not spin with fire.
These are some of the aspects that made me love San Marcos La Laguna, and that made me feel inspired and grateful for the time I spent there. I learned a lot from and in this place and the people, and I felt connected to myself, to others, and to the energy of the place.
The Icky
However, not everything was perfect in San Marcos La Laguna. There were some aspects that made me uncomfortable and sad, and that made me question the ethics of tourism. Here are some of the more negative aspects of this place:
The prevalence of retreats and expensive yoga or ‘hippie’ activities, of which the money does not seem to sufficiently feed back into the local community. San Marcos La Laguna is known for its spiritual and holistic activities, ceremonies, and festivals, but they come at a high price. A yoga class can cost up to $20, a massage can cost up to $50, and a retreat can cost up to $1000. Although I would not say that these activities are not worth the money, these prices are unaffordable for most locals, and thereby they create a gap between the foreigners and the natives. Moreover, most of the money goes to the owners of these businesses, who are mostly ‘gringos’ and white Europeans, and not to the local workers, who are paid low wages and do not have the means to start a similar financially profitable business.
The inequality of the locals, who work in the service industry and do not own property, whereas it is ‘gringos’ and white Europeans that own property. Although some of the European property owners that I have met are very conscious and work closely together with locals, San Marcos La Laguna remains to be a prime example of neo-colonialism, where foreigners have more power, wealth, and influence than locals. The foreigners own most of the land, (highly profitable) businesses, and resources, while the locals work for them as cleaners, cooks, or guides. As a result, locals have little or no say in the developments in San Marcos. Moreover, traditions are commodified, and in that sense exploited, by nonMaya people. Whereas Maya traditions and ceremonies, and their sacred lands are advertised towards tourists, it is rarely Maya people themselves that own the businesses hosting these activities, or the buildings that are standing on their sacred land.
The environmental impacts of tourism, such as overcrowding and pollution. Part of the reason why so little land and businesses are owned by Maya people is because the recurring tourism increases the wealth and success of 'gringo' and white European business owners, and attracts more of them. Moreover, mass tourism usually increases environmental pollution, although I would definitely argue this is a global problem that can best be solved with collective efforts of both foreigners and locals. The lake is polluted by sewage, trash, and chemicals, and its water level is dropping due to climate change and overuse. Part of the trash pollution comes from the frequent single use plastic in stores, cafes and restaurants.
These are some of the aspects that made me dislike San Marcos La Laguna, and that made me feel icky and guilty. Upon arriving I right away noticed some of these aspects and realized that I was part of the problem, and that I had to be aware and responsible for my actions and their impacts.
The Ethical
So, how can we travel ethically in San Marcos La Laguna, or in any other place in the world? Ethical travel is travel that respects and benefits the people, the culture, and the environment of the destination. Ethical travel is travel that is conscious, compassionate, and constructive. And finally, I would argue that ethical travel is travel that makes a positive difference, not only for ourselves, but also for others and the environment.
Here are some tips and suggestions on how to be an ethical traveller in San Marcos La Laguna:
Learn about the background, the context, and the issues of the place you are visiting, and try to understand its perspective and reality. Avoid stereotypes, judgments, or assumptions, and be open-minded and curious. Respect the local customs, traditions, and beliefs, and follow the rules and etiquette. Do not impose your values, opinions, or expectations, and do not interfere with the local affairs or conflicts unless you are invited to do so.
Support the local economy by spending money in locally owned restaurants, shops, and purchase locally made crafts, and avoid chains, franchises, or foreign-owned businesses as much as you can. Or support foreign-owned businesses and organizations that use their profit for the good of the entire community. Buy local products, services, and souvenirs, and avoid imported or mass-produced items that have a negative impact on the environment. Pay fair prices, and do not bargain too hard or too low. However, be aware of the prices in local currency and make sure that you are not being taken advantage of too much. When I arrived my tuktuk driver proposed 200Q for a ride I eventually paid 20Q for because I knew he was way overasking me. Finally, if you can, tip generously and hire local guides, drivers, or teachers, and listen to their stories and advice.
Try to minimize your environmental footprint by avoiding single use plastic. Sellers at shops tend to give you a plastic bag for each fruit and vegetable you buy. I always carry some reusable bags with me, or reuse the plastic ones I have gotten earlier and as soon as I say what I am looking for I add 'no necesito bolsa' (= I do not need a bag). I also always carry a reusable coffee cup, reusable straw and reusable cutlery and avoid buying takeaway foods that come with a lot of trash. Dispose of your waste properly (and keep it with you if you cannot find a trashcan), and recycle or compost when possible. Conserve water and energy, and use solar or eco-friendly alternatives. And, obviously, do not litter, damage, or disturb the nature, wildlife, or landscape.
Choose to give back to the place you are visiting, and contribute to its development and well-being. For example, by donating to an initiative that benefits the local community. When volunteering, do not impose your agenda, vision, or solutions, and do not exploit or harm the locals. Work with them and learn from them, do not teach them, or make sure you are at least teaching each other (in a respectful way).
Be humble, polite, and grateful, and show appreciation and respect. I always make sure that wherever I go I smile and greet people, whether that are locals or fellow foreigners, and try to make small talk when I can. This is not always comfortable as unfortunately kindness sometimes makes that people try to sell me things, or is interpreted (and taught to be so) as an opportunity to beg for money or pity. Nevertheless, kindness and small talk is important to me because it makes me feel connected with the people around me. It feels like a mutual recognition of being human beings, as one of the fundamental teachings of Ubuntu philosophy is. Lastly, be aware of your privilege, power, and impact, and acknowledge your responsibility and accountability.
These are some of the tips and suggestions that can help you and the locals have a better and more meaningful experience in San Marcos La Laguna. By traveling ethically, you will enjoy the good side of this hippie town, but also address the icky side of it and hopefully make a positive difference.
Conclusion
San Marcos La Laguna is a beautiful and fascinating place, but it is also a complex and challenging one. It has a good and an icky side, and it is up to us to decide how we want to interact with it. In this blog post, I shared with you my honest and personal experience of visiting San Marcos La Laguna, and how I tried to travel ethically in this hippie town.
My goal was to highlight the uncomfortable side of the vibe in San Marcos that you do not often read about and to create awareness for power differences in such places between foreigners with capital and locals who work in the service industry. I hope that by reading this blog post, you have gained a deeper and broader understanding of San Marcos La Laguna, and that you have been inspired to travel ethically in this place or in any other place in the world.
Are you ready to visit San Marcos La Laguna and see for yourself? How do you make sure you travel ethically and consciously? Let me know in the comments below, send me an email or message me on Instagram. And remember to sign up to my newsletter to stay updated on future posts!
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