What are chickenbuses in Guatemala? Chickenbuses, known locally as "camionettes," are iconic, colorful, repurposed school buses from the U.S. that are now a staple of public transportation in Guatemala and across Central America. These buses, often noticeable by their vibrant colours and religious symbols, are an essential part of daily life, connecting cities, towns, and rural areas.
Although many travellers choose the comfort of private transportation, such as shuttles, it is so worth it to take public transport at least once in Guatemala! It is a great option for budget travellers as they are cheaper. And for travellers, riding a chickenbus is more than just a way to get from point A to point B; it’s an authentic travel experience that offers a glimpse into the daily local life of many Guatemalans. Some of my best stories come from riding chickenbuses and I absolutely love it!
In this blogpost, I will take you through all the questions I had before I came to Guatemala with regards to chickenbuses. How to ride a chickenbus, how to pay, how much they cost, where to find the schedules and bus stops, and where in Guatemala they go. It might seem chaotic, at least from a European perspective, but I promise you there is organization to this perceived chaos!
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Ride a Chickenbus in Guatemala
Where to find chickenbuses? To ride a chickenbus, the first thing you need to know is where to find one. Chickenbuses travel almost everywhere, from large cities to the smallest pueblos.
However, there are no formal schedules or clearly marked stops, although there is a good indication on this website. When I say indication I primarily mean that the schedules are a rule of thumb more than a set schedule, at least in my experience. Still, the best approach is to ask several locals where buses to your destination pass by or depart from.
TIP: If you’re leaving from a big city and want to secure a seat, it’s best to start your journey at the main bus terminal.
What are chickenbuses like in Guatemala? Once you’ve found your bus, you’ll notice that the experience is vastly different from more familiar forms of transportation. Chickenbuses are known for being crowded, loud, and lively. This is not just the case in Guatemala, but in the whole of Central America.
The moment you step on board, you’re immersed in a whirlwind of activity. Seats fill up quickly, and personal space is a luxury that’s often sacrificed. But that’s part of the charm, it's truly an authentic travel experience that will teach you about Guatemalan life and how you yourself deal in such seemingly chaotic situations.
I vividly remember one ride where I found myself in an 18-person minivan packed with 30 people on my way from Xela to Antigua. A three-year-old sat on my lap, her cheek pressing against the same hand that was holding the hat that had fallen off the baby sitting next to us. As we sped through sharp mountain curves, the young mother and baby both fell asleep while breastfeeding. The mother’s head leaned onto my right shoulder, while on my lap the little boy’s head rested on my left inner shoulder. I used my left hand to protect the little boy’s head from bouncing against the window with every sharp left turn. Looking out, I saw the rich forest peeking from the clouds, and I couldn’t help but wonder if I would really be travelling if I only took shuttles.
How much do chickenbuses cost? Chickenbuses are much cheaper than shuttles and so a great option for budget travel in Central America! I will put an overview of some of the most popular rides with prices below.
Paying for your ride is another unique aspect of the chickenbus experience. One of the bus assistants, usually one of the drivers, will come around to collect the fare at some point during the journey.
To avoid being overcharged, it’s a good idea to observe how much other passengers are paying and confidently offer a similar amount. If you ask the fare directly, be aware that you may be charged more because you’re a tourist. The lack of a fixed fare system is part of the informal, yet functional, nature of chickenbus travel.
How do you get off a chickenbus and where? Getting off the bus is just as informal. While there are commonly agreed-upon stops where many passengers disembark, you can request to be let off anywhere along the route. Simply tell the driver when you want to stop, and they’ll accommodate your request. This flexibility is one of the many reasons chickenbuses are so integral to local life in Guatemala.
Safety Tips for Riding Chickenbuses
Safety is a common concern for travelers considering taking a chickenbus. There are two main aspects to consider: the safety of your valuables, and your personal safety during the ride.
First, let’s talk about keeping your belongings safe. As with any form of public transportation, it’s essential to be vigilant. Keep your bag on your lap, avoid flaunting valuables, and keep your wallet and phone securely stored when not in use.
Travelling late at night is generally not recommended and usually there are not even any chickenbuses going after 7pm. While the vast majority of chickenbus rides are uneventful - besides the adventure the ride is in itself -, there have been rare cases of robberies. It’s always a good idea to back up your photos when travelling, have travel insurance, and avoid carrying unnecessary valuables or large amounts of cash—just in case.
That being said, don’t let fear deter you; chickenbuses in and around more touristy areas are typically safer, and some even have security cameras.
Second, personal safety during the ride is an important consideration. Guatemalan bus drivers are known for their aggressive driving style. They overtake other vehicles frequently, speed through sharp curves, and sometimes drive without lights.
In my travels through 20 countries, some of the most reckless and dangerous driving I’ve experienced has been on Guatemalan chickenbuses.
In my travels through 20 countries, some of the most reckless and dangerous driving I’ve experienced has been on Guatemalan chickenbuses. One particular ride stands out in my memory. The bus was racing so recklessly through a winding mountain road that every curve made me question my life choices. At one point, we hit a giant rock on the side of the road, and the bus had to be fixed. This was an exception though and even the Guatemalans in the bus were screaming to the busdriver to slow down. Luckily after the rock accident he did. I later heard that this is one of the most dangerous bus routes in the whole of Guatemala! Despite this incident and the seemingly insane driving, these drivers are incredibly experienced. They know the roads like the back of their hand and navigate them every day.
A popular joke in Guatemala captures this experience perfectly: A pastor and a bus driver arrive at the gates of heaven. God is doing the judgments. The pastor receives a nice house, while the bus driver is awarded a gigantic villa with a pool and everything he could ever want. Curious, the pastor asks, "God, I have dedicated my life to you. Why does the bus driver get such a grand reward?" God replies, "Well, where people would sometimes fall asleep during your sermons, everyone on this driver’s bus was always praying."
It’s anecdotes like these that make chickenbus rides unforgettable. Yes, the journey can be chaotic, but it’s all part of the adventure. For me, these experiences are what make travelling truly memorable. When I meet travellers who only take shuttles, I understand the appeal of safety and comfort, but I also feel a bit sad that they’re missing out on these quintessential moments of authentic travel.
For me, these experiences are what make travelling truly memorable.
Prices and Popular Routes
Unlike as with most countries across the world where you can find and compare buses on websites like omio.com, it is not as clearcut in Central America. Chickenbus fares are incredibly affordable, making them an attractive option for budget-conscious travelers. The cost varies depending on the distance, but even the longest routes are cheap compared to other forms of transportation. Popular routes include journeys between major tourist destinations like Antigua and Lake Atitlán, as well as trips to smaller, less-visited towns and villages. The lack of formal schedules means that you can embark on spontaneous adventures, discovering new places along the way.
Popular public transport routes Guatemala and what they cost (approx.) per mode of transport:
Transport between La Aurora Airport, Guatemala City to Antigua:
Shuttle is 300qt (35 EUR)
Taxi is 300qt (35 EUR)
Public transport via chickenbus is 30qt (3 EUR) to San Lucas, then 30qt (3 EUR) to Antigua
Transport between Antigua and Lago Atitlán:
Shuttle is 250qt (29 EUR)
Public transport via chickenbus is 50qt (6 EUR) + 20qt (2 EUR) with one transfer.
Transport between Lago Atitlán and Xela:
Shuttle is 200qt (23 EUR)
Public transport via chickenbus from San Pedro La Laguna is 60qt (10 EUR)
Transport from Semuc Champey to Flores:
Shuttle is 300qt (35 EUR)
Public transport via chickenbus is 70qt (8 EUR) + 90qt (10 EUR) with a transfer in Rio Dulce.
Missing a route you want to know about? Send me an email! :)
Important! The best way of transport from Guatemala City (not the airport) to Antigua is actually not per chickenbus, but per coach. In Guatemala City many blogs recommend to avoid chickenbuses as it is the only place in the country where robberies are more frequent. I have not tried it for myself, but for only 75qt (about 10 EUR/USD) with transport companies like Cristobal Colon you are in a comfortable coach that is a bit more secure and does not drive as fast. So the choice is easily made! You can simply go to the bus station and buy a ticket for the next bus, schedules can be found on GoogleMaps or on the website of the bus company itself.
Conclusion: Why You Should Ride a Chickenbus in Guatemala
Taking a chickenbus in Guatemala is more than just a mode of transportation; it’s an essential part of the authentic travel experience. It’s affordable, adventurous, and provides a unique insight into Guatemalan local life. While the journey may be challenging at times, it’s these very challenges that make it memorable. So, if you’re travelling through Guatemala, hop on a chickenbus at least once. You’ll come away with stories and memories that will last a lifetime.
What are your craziest experiences with public transport when travelling? Share them in the comments below!
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