Nestled in the highlands of Guatemala, Xela — formally known as Quetzaltenango — is a destination brimming with cultural richness and natural beauty. Unfortunately, backpackers and travellers too often skip this city when travelling in Guatemala. However, whether you're an avid adventurer or a slow traveller seeking an immersive experience, Xela has something unique to offer. From Spanish language schools to traditional weaving classes and scenic hikes, this city invites you to explore its multifaceted charm at your own pace.
To have internet in Guatemala you can either buy a physical sim, or buy an e-sim. Here are some options to check out:
When I went to Nicaragau I bought an e-sim via Airalo which at the time was the best priced e-sim I could find.
Another good esim option is Yesim - with my code 'travelpayouts24' you get a 3 EUR discount until 31st of December 2024!
Finally, I only recenlty learned about this option... If you are a frequent traveller, you can look into the Drimsim, which is a physical universal sim. Yes! You read that right. It supposedly works in every country as soon as your plane lands and thus has similar benefits to the e-sims.
About Xela
Located about 200 kilometers west of Guatemala City, Xela sits at an altitude of 2,330 meters above sea level. This elevation gifts the city with a temperate climate, perfect for outdoor activities and finally giving you the opportunity to wear the sweater at the bottom of your backpack on refreshingly chilly evenings. With a population of approximately 150.000, Xela is the second-largest city in Guatemala, yet it maintains an authentic and small-town feel with a vibrant local culture.
Xela is a melting pot of Indigenous K'iche' Maya and Ladino cultures, creating a diverse community known for its hospitality and rich traditions. The city's colonial architecture, bustling markets, and lively festivals, such as the Christian Semana Santa celebrations, reflect this unique blend.
What to Do in Xela as a (Slow) Traveller
Learn Spanish at a Local School
Xela is renowned for its Spanish language schools, making it an ideal destination for those looking to improve their language skills. Institutions like Celas Maya offer immersive learning experiences, combining classroom instruction with cultural activities. I can particularly recommend Celas Maya as this is one of the only Indigenous-owned schools in Xela, meaning you will support the local community by taking classes. And if you already speak Spanish and are a language-enthusiast you can even learn K'iche at the school. Regardless of the institution you choose, the affordability and quality of each of these programs attract students from around the world.
Participate in a Trama Textiles Weaving Class
For a hands-on cultural experience, join a weaving class at Trama Textiles. This women's cooperative empowers local artisans and continues traditional weaving techniques. They offer a variety of classes during which you'll learn about the intricate process of creating beautiful textiles and have the chance to weave your own piece. It's a wonderful way to support the local community and take home a unique souvenir.
For slow travellers seeking a volunteering experience, Trama Textiles also offers homestays and volunteering opportunities. Your daily work will range from managing the online sales and packages, supporting the administration of the charity of the cooperative the Almaya Fund, or any creative project you want to start and finish yourself. You can find this workstay opportunity via Workaway.
Explore the Natural Beauty: Hikes and Hot Springs
Xela's surrounding landscapes are perfect for hiking enthusiasts. One of the most popular trails is the hike from Xela to Lake Atitlán which you can either do via a travel agency, or by yourself (when well-prepared). Another well-known hike is the one onto Volcán Santa María. The strenuous climb is rewarded with panoramic vistas of the highlands and, on clear days, views of the active Santiaguito lava dome.
After a day of hiking, there are various opportunities to relax at the natural hot springs or saunas around Xela. Although the most one is Fuentes Georginas, a set of natural hot springs located about 45 minutes from Xela, I would recommend going to the lesser-visited Aguas Amargas instead. The mineral-rich waters and lush surroundings make it a perfect spot to unwind and rejuvenate. Seeking an even more private experience? Then I can recommend hiking to los Vahos to enjoy the natural saunas in the mountains. Depending on the size of the amount of people you go with and the availability of the saunas, you can get a sauna completely for yourself. Moreover, each of these places also offers beautiful hikes and the possibility to stay the night.
Other (Local) Activities
With not much tourism having arrived to the city just yet (and hence less gentrification going on), Xela is perhaps the most affordable travel destination in Guatemala. There are three local markets where you can buy fresh produce, crafts, and get an authentic taste of everyday life in Xela. The one near Parque Central in Zone 1 is located near most hostels and Trama Textiles, but within a 30 minute walk or a short 'colectivo' taxi ride you arrive at the bustling Mercado La Democracia. Not feeling like cooking yourself? There are plenty of good restaurants and cafes around Xela that offer local food, but also excellent Italian food, Asian cuisine, and delicious pastries and even sourdough bread.
Besides its many hikes around, Xela also offers several options to move within the city. Near Mercado Minerva there is a free track for running and an outdoor gym. Within Zone 1 you can visit one of the yoga classes at the Yoga House, or take a self-defence, kickboxing or Brazilian Jiu-Jitsu class at G-Team Xela - all of these are very affordable. In the same building as the G-Team Xela gym there is also a local cinema that hosts arthouse film screenings, short film screenings and other film events.
Where to Stay in Xela
Homestays
For an immersive cultural experience, consider staying with a local family. Homestays provide a unique opportunity to practice your Spanish, enjoy home-cooked meals, and gain deeper insights into Guatemalan culture. Many Spanish schools in Xela offer homestay options as part of their program. These homestay options are available from one week to several months and are very affordable (about 120-180 EUR for a week that includes accommodation and three daily meals).
The Yoga House
For slow travellers looking to stay in Xela for several weeks or months the Yoga House is the best option to stay at. The Yoga House is a shared community household with communal kitchen and roof terraces. Living here means you will partake in the weekly chore schedule, communal Sunday dinners, and meet (rotating) people from across the world and different ages who live in the house. And, as the name already hints, the house also has a yoga space with daily yoga classes that are included in the rent. Rent is about 900 Quetzales a month (depending on the size of your room and whether it has a bathroom), so you will likely not find a more affordable living space with the same benefits.
Hostels
Xela also offers a range of budget-friendly hostels, perfect for travellers looking for comfort and community. Here are a few top recommendations:
Hostel Casa Seibel: Located in a colonial building near Parque Centro América, this hostel offers a cozy atmosphere with a communal kitchen and garden.
Kasa Kiwi Hostel & Travel Agency: This hostel provides comfortable accommodations and easy access to travel planning services, making it a convenient base for exploring the region.
Conclusion
Xela is a captivating destination that offers a blend of cultural immersion and natural beauty. Whether you're learning Spanish, weaving traditional textiles, hiking volcanic trails, or simply soaking in hot springs, the city's charm and hospitality are sure to leave a lasting impression. Indeed, many backpackers who do end up going here say it is one of their favourite places in Guatemala because of its local, authentic, and open vibe. Moreover, especially, for an unforgettable slow travel experience, Xela is a destination that truly has it all.
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